1. Use a section of hard product for the based. I used 3mm mdf for this example but thick tough card might also do the trick depending on how badly it may warp when done. Previously I have used 5mm cork tiles and even 2 cork tiles glued together to combat warping. I have found that if you paint or glue and flock sections of the piece at a time it is less likely to warp than if I was to paint or glue the whole in 1 step.
2. Use a sharp knife to chamfer the edges so when they are placed on a terrain tabletop, which for me is a mat, the edges will blend in better.
3. Glue on the main scenic item for the model. In my case here I am building a rocky outcrop so I added some filler using old left over pieces of foamcore and a couple of pieces of bark from my garden. Other models might include small buildings, stockpile or scatter pieces, woods, fields, gardens or any combination of those. Don't worry about all the rocks in the images below as I got ahead of myself.
4. Use plaster or filler of some sort to even out and build up the terrain so it looks like its naturally been that way for a while. I use a tube of SIKA WIDE CRACK FILLER - FILLER-105 from the local hardware store as it is a thick grey plaster/clay type substance with some texture already in it which works well as rough ground or wall render etc to give models a little more detail. I use my fingers to smooth it out and work it into the edges of scenic items but thin it out towards the edge of the base. If you are modelling a road or walking track into the scene you need to finish off my running a finger or two along the length of the track you are modelling a few times so it results in a slightly lower and worn out part of the model. With a water based filler you can dip your finger into water and rub it into the filler to make it more thin and spreadable where needed.
5. While the filler is still wet or after applying a layer of wood glue to parts of the scene, sprinkle various sized rocks and gravel or sand of the model. Remember to avoid tracks or roads as the traffic on those tend to be clear of such items.
6. Once the filler or glue for the rocks and gravel is dry, cover the whole model with a coat of your 1st color of paint. For me it is a medium brown acrylic house paint from a sample pot I got from my local hardware store matching the 2 most prominent colors on my terrain mat.
7. When the 1st coat of paint is dry, liberally apply 1 or 2 more "top" colors used to blend the model into the tabletop.
8. Apply any detail items to complete the model such as painting buildings, doors, windows, adding trees or shrubs or flock.
8. Spray with a clear sealer to lock everything into place and protect it from the years to come.
Any comments/suggestions are welcome so feel free to add a comment below.
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